Good Gardening
September-Working
Month-but Take Time Out for Enjoyment
Past 60+ days turned out to be 4th hottest on
record in metro area, all plants (annuals to water gardens) were given a true test of durability and endurance. Spring was
dry like summer and summer was wet like spring and hot. Explosions of crab, goose, foxtail weedy grasses with nut sedge thrown
have become a really troublesome factor in parts of many landscapes. Many think problems came just this but not true really
indication of troubles moving in for awhile, it is going to take care and maintenance to get rid of problems. Cooler
days in August started many plants into dormancy and or fall coloration pre-Labor Day.
Moniker of
September '10 - Work hard but stop and marvel at all You've done
Lawns-(see weed control)
sodding of both cool and warm season types-water insuring 1” of per week-rainfall or irrigated, mow
blade height 2.5 - 3”, frequency keep clippings 1” or less, bagging not needed, core aerate-cool season
only, compost spread ¼ - ½" keeping clay soil from re-compacting, feeds soil that feeds
lawn, overseed (if needed 1lb. per 1000 sq. ft.), water, after first mowing apply seed starter fertilizer, never lay
sod over severely damaged areas without soil prep work / rototill spread 1" compost, rake to insure positive drainage
(prevents puddles, surface runoff towards structure), lay sod, tamp / roll for surface contact, fertilize-seed starter
/ winterizer, water, keep damp not soggy, roots resistence to slight tug indicate) establishing
Care,
Maintenance and Random Tips-in ground or containers Annual, Bulbs-fertilize, keep watered,
Bulbs-summer (canna, gladiola, caladium)-if browning, foliage shrinking or stop flowering-dig, clean off
soil, check for rotten spots if size and healthy allow drying, place in paper bag layer with newspaper, store in cool dry
spot, spring purchase but do not plant-could prematurely germinate Edibles-summer vegetables
production will drop dramatically as cool season broccoli, cabbage will get full heads, watch ripening pumpkins, squash, and
etc. related to harvest, herbs (annual type) harvest ASAP to get maximum flavor, harvesting perennials cut ½ only to
keep viable for future, Houseplants-no re-potting, cut back water, prior to move indoors check entire plant,
soil and bottom of pot for any insect or disease problems, identify if control is difficult consider discarding to prevent
spreading to other indoor plantings, Moisture-all plantings need 1” (rainfall / irrigated) every 7
days (sunny, windy and lower humidity) or every 10 days (overcast, calm and higher humidity) water for extended period less
often works best, Mulch-cosmetic top dress 1” only if needed this allows ground to cool and plants
go dormant, Nature and Wildlife-alternate repellent types to maximize effectiveness, Mole-activity
increase, breeding season, females making new dens (new piles of dirt in landscape), all are aggressive to fatten for winter,
trapping offer solution-seek professional help if needed, Yellow Jackets / Ground Hornets-stingers and biters,
aggressive around food / drink, gently swish away, do squash releases smell causing swarm, nest suspected contact professional
pest control, Perennials-divide and or transplant, mums-purchasing budded / flowering only
last 10-14 days, Problems-Disease / Pests-remove declining foliage / stem / flower heads, accumulating piles
of tree foliage, etc. to minimize overwinter potential-chemical applications effectiveness is diminishing as plants growing
season is ending, Roses-stop pruning spent flowers allow rose hips to form, fertilize, monitor for signs
of rose rosette or other problems, Webs-2 types-fall web worms-caterpillars build web protection from birds,
etc., in tree lower branches will not cause major damage but to control future population destroy webbing with stick / pole,
etc., spider-in numerous locations from ground up aids in insect control so leave alone, Weed Control-(perennial)-dandelion,
nutgrass, plantain, violets, etc., (annual self seeders)-henbit, goose, crabgrass foxtail, annual blue grass, etc., temperatures
below 70 degrees herbicides begin to lose control / kill power, hand digging can reduce population density (exceptions nutgrass,
and violets-do not dig spreads seeds)
Planting In New or in Existing Beds-best
month of year, warm soil and gentle rains-new beds-no matter what type of plants being considered
(exception single planted tree) delineate and measure area control existing vegetation (removal, transplant or kill
depending upon type), rototill or spade area to depth of 6-8” use caution under trees (root damage), purchase 2 cubic
yards of well composted material for each 100 square feet of bed space, add 2” of organic matter at a time / blend with
existing soil, repeat until all organics have been added to create raised bed, rake to insure positive drainage from structures,
water to settle out air pockets, continue weed control-existing beds-control weeds, remove any unwanted plants,
layer 1-2" compost on surface work in, water area-Installation-water prior
to planting, when removed from container check root systems if tightly wound gently untangle, dig hole 3X diameter of root
ball / only 80% as deep place plant in hole backfill soil and water, keep soil damp not soggy 14 days then water if rainfall
less that 1" a week no fertilizer or amendments (beyond soil prep) until soil test use results as guideline, remove
any damage leaves stems, twigs, branches-, Woodies-no pruning during first year except
dead or damage portions Herbaceous (perennials, ground covers, etc.)-remove flowers, pinch stems back ¼
length, Mulch-add 1" only allows ground to cool naturally, more mulching later in year if needed
